This famous old fishing hotel is a treat from top to toe. It’s a quirky place run with great panache by the Campbell’s, who refurbished in style and now it shines. It’s supremely comfy – smart without being swanky. You’ll find golden wallpapers, antique furniture, beautifully upholstered armchairs, an open fire in the sitting room. It’s a remarkably friendly place. Fishermen tend to come for the same week each year, but they welcome interlopers into the fold. There’s great tradition, too; a board master allocates fishing beats each morning, a gong announces dinner. Dinner is a treat, perhaps ham hock terrine, fresh local salmon, profiteroles with chocolate sauce. There are two bars, a pretty garden, paths that lead down to the sea. This is a wildly beautiful corner of Scotland: spectacular walking, wildlife tours and golf all wait.