Minutes from the bustle of an ancient market square in Masham stands the Theakston family's face-lifted flagship inn. The great and the good gather to mark the end of the week. In the handsome public bar, an open fire throws golden light on old oak floors, whilst gleaming brass platters jostle for space with newspapers, local magazines and great jugs of fresh flowers. Sit with a pint of Theakston's Best Bitter in the cosy tap room complete with dart board and cribbage, or wander through to the elegant dining room, where local and seasonal produce has prominence. Try steak and ale pie, or rolled fillet of plaice with cream dill sauce, then banana butterscotch pancakes – beautiful fuel for an afternoon tramp up into the heart of Wensleydale. Children and dogs are welcome, too.