Leyburn is lovely, a fine old market town on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales. As for the Sandpiper, this 17th-century stone inn sits peacefully on the square. Inside, cosy interiors have low ceilings, the odd beam and the best food in town - robust food that elates; Jonathan, a Roux scholar, has cooked for presidents and prime ministers. In the bar, locals put the world to rights over pints of Black Sheep while contemplating irresistible menus: salted squid or roasted chorizo if you fancy Yorkshire tapas; battered haddock or omelette Arnold Bennett if you want to explore the bar menu; or the full works in an attractive dining room, perhaps cheese soufflé, Swinton venison, dark chocolate marquise with white chocolate ice cream. Whisky lovers will appreciate the large collection of malts behind the bar.