In the village of Newland the Ostrich is where the beer drinkers go, to sample eight changing ales. Across from All Saints Church, that ‘Cathedral of the Forest’, you mix with all sorts before a log fire. Walkers and trail bikers pile in for massive portions of delicious food, from Newland bread and cheese platter to rump of Welsh spring lamb with rich orange and cardamom sauce, Merguez sausage (lamb and Harissa) and crisp diced potato. The nicotine-brown ceiling that looks in danger of imminent collapse is supported by a massive oak pillar in front of the bar where the locals chatter and jazz CDs keep the place swinging. The weekly menu, served throughout the pub, takes a step up in class, and is excellent value. Energetic Kathryn and her team, including Alfie the pub dog, encourage the buzz. To the back is a walled garden – and the loos.