You're away from Lake Windermere in a small village encircled by a tangle of lanes that defeat most tourists. A church stands next door; the odd bride ambles out in summer, bell ringers practise on Friday mornings. But while the Punch Bowl sits in a sleepy village lost to the world – and doubles up as the post office – it is actually a seriously fancy inn. It was rescued from neglect and after a top-to-toe renovation it now sparkles. Outside, honeysuckle climbs on old stone walls, inside four fires keep you warm in winter. A clipped elegance runs throughout: leather sofas in a beamed sitting room, candles in vases on dining room tables. Award-winning chef Scott Fairweather works wonders with the likes of seared scallops, white chocolate and truffle risotto, and licquorice and blackcurrent soufflé with lemongrass ice cream.