Coast down the steep winding lane to a 1760s mill house in a woodland setting. Trebarwith's spectacular beach – all surfing and crabbing – is ten-minute walk: quite a spot. Back at the inn, the bar combines the best of Cornish old and Cornish new: big flagged floor, wooden tables, chapel chairs, two leather sofas by a wood-burning stove. The raftered dining room overlooking the burbling mill stream is light-filled and modern. Settle down to some rather good food: fish chowder; rib-eye steak with wild mushroom and pink peppercorn fricassée; rose, jasmine and orchid panna cotta. Bar meals are more traditional, they do great barbecues in summer and (be warned) a band often plays at the weekend. Coastal trails lead to Tintagel, official home of the Arthurian legends.